The poet from Gloucestershire, Laurie Lee, walked across the length of Spain just before the country got embroiled in a fiery civil war. Acclaimed travel author and magazine writer, Mark Eveleigh decides to follow in the footsteps of Laurie Lee by undertaking a monumental walk all the way from Gibraltar to the northern most reaches of Spain. A mind-numbing distance of 1,225 kilometres! Vagabond is a stirring reminiscence of Eveleigh’s exploits and a rousing homage to the eclectic, boisterous and humanitarian spirit of rural Spain.

Armed with Laurie Lee’s audiobook recounting the traveler’s exploits, a motley collection of songs certain to instill hope in the cockles of every nomad’s heart and the wishes of his wife and daughter, Eveleigh begins his arduous journey from Gibraltar. Stringing his hammock across sturdy trees and walking for almost 30-40 kilometers every day, Eveleigh caterwauls his way across some of the most unique and inimitable rural landscapes in Spain.

Unmindful of obstinate blisters and obdurate terrains, Eveleigh traipses across quaint villages benefiting from the hospitality of absolute strangers. Muttering to himself in the typical manner of a solitary traveler’s habit, Eveleigh is reminded of Paul Theroux’s dictum in Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, ‘all writers, when they are alone, talk to themselves.’ The punishing plains of Extremadura, bearing the brunt of a blazing sun – el sol de justicia (the sun of justice) saps Eveleigh physically but fails to dampen his inveterate spirt of adventure, a spirit which remains latent in every human being till such time it is harnessed as a result of some deep and fulfilling calling.

Along with canteens for stocking and resupplying water, Eveleigh relies on a small 0.6-litre bottle – a survival device as he calls it – created by a company supplying filters for humanitarian use in Africa. Incorporating a microfilter membrane and an activated carbon filter, the device enables the owner to drink water even liberally and safely from sources that may be vastly different from the definitions of hygiene.

The book is an affirmation of humanity. Eveleigh finds kindred souls in every stage of his treacherous journey. Even when kitchens are closed (which invariably is the case whenever the tired traveler happens to visit a bar/restaurant), the proprietors whip up a couple of sandwiches and a liberal dose of vino. An encounter where a little girl undertakes and then actually pays the bus fare for Eveleigh (when on account of an unavoidable exigency, the author is forced to board a conveyance, albeit for a short distance) is a memorable one that brings a smile to the face of the reader.

Eveleigh blends a judicious mix of wit along with his chronicling of the trek. For example, he painstakingly informs his readers about the existence of a plethora of patron saints – “Santa Rosa is the patron saint of gardeners, florists, and embroiderers…. Santa Elena was patron saint of divorced people and people going through difficult marriages. Also of archaeologists, although it’s very hard to see what the connection might be. Alto de San Roque is the patron saint of pilgrims and dogs…”

Even animals and reptiles inhabiting the wild seem to acknowledge the superhuman endeavour of Eveleigh and take great pains to keep out of his way. A Gargantuan Montpellier snake spanning almost two metres in length and as thick as a human wrist displays an impeccable sense of propriety and civility when accidentally accosted by Eveleigh. Although taking its own time to slide lazily away into the wild, it shows no signs of hostility whatsoever. In an amusing episode, Eveleigh is jolted out of his wits when he comes face to face with a humongous wild boar. As the author himself confesses, what follows is a medley of cacophonous yells. Whether the chaotic noises emanated from the recesses of the human’s throat or escaped the vocal chords of the snarling boar – the matter is yet to be resolved – the boar flees the spot and hurtles towards the safety of the forests.

During the final leg of his journey, Eveleigh joins hordes of pilgrims making the famous Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage. Even though not a pilgrim himself, his phenomenal walk makes Eveleigh a pilgrim too. A pilgrim of human adventure, a pilgrim of resilience, a pilgrim of persuasion and more than anything else a pilgrim of purpose.

Vagabond is a testimony to the indefatigable human spirit. It is also a timely reminder that the world as we know it is an assemblage of what makes life worth living – care, compassion, and camaraderie!